1.12.08

Just over a year ago I made my first trip to the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia
to become Curator of the South Georgia Museum. It was quite a daunting undertaking
with an initial 18 hour flight followed by 4 days at sea in order to reach the isolated island.
Despite the long distance from home I have recently returned for my second season
as Curator and I love the island and Grytviken as much as ever.
 

The Museum is based at the old whaling station of Grytviken, to the north of the island,
which was established in 1904.  South Georgia is well know for its relationship to the
whaling industry and the Museum focuses mainly on the history of this industry as well
as exploration, scientific research, natural and military history.  The majority of visitors
during the austral summer are from cruise ships with smaller numbers coming from
Navy vessels and private yachts. My main focus at the Museum is documenting the
collection and putting all this information on a website so that people can access the
artefacts all over the world. I spent a week in Sandefjord in August looking at how
the Museum documents its collection and also looking at ways of working together on
exhibitions which is really exciting.

Earlier in November we received a replica of the James Caird which was purchased
by the South Georgia Heritage Trust last year. The original James Caird was sailed
by Shackleton with five other men from Elephant Island to South Georgia in 1916.
Having the replica at the Museum will be terrific as we can now show people the
scale of the vessel in which this remarkable journey was undertaken. The boat arrived
on a cruise ship and was manoeuvred into Grytviken atop two zodiacs with the builder
nestled on the deck. She was then half rigged and many people took the opportunity
of a team photo. She will form part of our new Maritime Gallery which will be opening shortly.
 

We held a remembrance service in the Church on the 11^th November. The Vice Rector
of Stanley Cathedral was visiting on a cruise ship and kindly conducted the service.
We then had a bell ringing ceremony on the seal catcher Dias, which is beached outside
the Museum. The Dias was built as the steam fishing trawler, Viola, in Beverley in 1906.
She was involved in the sinking of two U-boats and patrolled the waters around
Shetland whilst requisitioned during the First World War. She was then converted
into a whale catcher and headed to South Georgia in 1927 before becoming a sealer
in later years. The original bell from the vessel, when she was know as Viola, is on loan
to the Museum from the Hull fish market and they were very keen that it should be rung
on board the vessel on remembrance Sunday.

Daily life in Grytviken is rather different to daily life back in Scotland. It is surprising
how quickly I have adapted to the lifestyle and my surroundings in SG.  There are no
vehicles, no shops, nothing to spend your money on, you don’t meet anyone on your
way to work other than the seals and penguins and it is very easy to forget about the
outside world.  I don’t really miss anything other than my friends and family and perhaps
my own space.  Even with just 27 people here it is incredibly difficult to get any time
to yourself. There are currently 10 people who work for the British Antarctic Survey,
the Government Officer and his wife, three people at the Museum and also 12 people
working on the new hydro electric plant so we can give up our dependence on diesel generators.

Last year I was living at the British Antarctic Survey base at King Edward Point.
This year I am lucky enough to have a cottage right next to the Museum, which
in turn is part of the whaling station. It is pretty amazing when you open your
curtains in the morning and there are two massive elephant seals fighting outside
the window. It’s not so amazing when they then decide to blubber right across the
Museum forecourt knocking down all the display signs in their path. Luckily we have
adopted an Ele-proof mechanism which means that the signs come apart really easily
rather than being snapped in half by the great noisy brutes. 

It is very much a case of making your own entertainment here but we don’t seem to have
too much trouble. We have lots of themed nights, special meals and barbecues and there
are always opportunities for hill walking, ski-ing and watching the wildlife which is simply
outstanding. We are also lucky enough to be invited on board a number of the cruise ships
which come into Grytviken which is always a welcome change.

The fur seals started arriving a few weeks ago and they now cover almost every surface
along the coast. They can be quite difficult at times to I am always planning an escape
route should they fancy a bite!

I would be very happy to hear from anyone who would like more information on the
Museum or on South Georgia. You can email me: elsa.davidson@sght.org

You can also check out or websites: www.sght.org and www.sgmuseum.gs

Elsa Davidson

Curator

South Georgia Museum